Finding the Chocolate Fairy in Magical Bruges

By Sandra Scott

Bruges, Belgium is a magical, fairytale city. It was evening when my husband and I arrived by train from Brussels. The lights of Market Square against the black night sky enchanted us. The magic continued when we checked into the Hotel Heritage on the street directly behind Market Square. The boutique hotel has a cellar that dates back to the 13^th century but the major part of the building dates to 1869. Our room was luxurious and in keeping with the era. Breakfast the next morning was impressive with silver tableware and linen tablecloths but it was the crystal chandelier, fireplace, and period decorations in the neo-classic dining room that entranced us and evoked images of an earlier more elegant era.

After breakfast we set out to explore the medieval city and the magic continued. We discovered the Chocolate Museum and the Chocolate Fairy. The Museum’s fairy was especially created to symbolize the multi-cultural origins of cocoa. She is a beautiful blend of African, South American and Asian. We wandered from floor to floor learning about the Aztecs and Incas who used cocoa beans as money, to the discovery of chocolate by the Spanish Explorers, and followed the chocolate trail to present-day Bruges. Of special interest was the evolution of chocolate drinks. Cocoa drink traces were found in the Mayan terra cotta pots dating back to 600 BC. In the last room, we watched Valentine Smith demonstrate the chocolate making process, and got a free sample.

We continued our exploration and the magic continued with a boat ride through the canals of the city led by a guide who looked like he had just stepped out of a Viking saga. The medieval buildings and canal-side houses made the ride unforgettable. The boat turned around in Minnewater, a picturesque pond with elegant white swans.

After the ride we wandered down the streets past one enticing chocolate shop after another. Unable to resist the temptation any longer, we entered the shop of Chocolatier Marie de Bruges. We commented on the chocolate swans that were prominently featured in the display case. John said, “In memory of our boat ride we must have some dark chocolate swans.”

Marie asked, “Do you know the legend of the swan?” We didn’t, so she shared the story with us. It seems that in 1488 the people of Bruges had executed one of the town administrators belonging to the court of Maximilian of Austria, husband and successor of Duchess Mary of Burgundy. The town administrator was called “Pieter Lanchals,” a name that means “long neck.” The Lanchals family coat of arms featured a white swan. According to the legend, Maximilian ordered the people of Bruges to keep swans on their lakes and canals forever. Today the swans are a symbol of Bruges.

Slowly we made our way back to the Heritage Hotel with our box of chocolate swans. The lights of the city were coming on and once again turned Market Square into a fairyland. We complimented the Heritage Hotel owners, Johan and Isabelle Creytens, on their hotel, their attention to detail, and impeccable service. “The city is magical. It is a like a fairytale. And so the Heritage Hotel.”

“We agree and we still feel the magic,” said Isabelle, “Do you want to see the most magical room in our hotel?”

Of course we did. The window of the Tower Room is perfectly positioned to frame the Bell Tower, magically illuminated against the night sky. That’s the room we will choose the next time we visit Bruges. Our stay in Bruges was a modern day fairytale: a beautiful, historic hotel, a chocolate fairy at the Chocolate Museum, and a plethora of chocolate shops.

For more information: www.hotel-heritage.com, www.choco-story.be, www.visitbelgium.com

Sandra Scott is a frequent contributor to travel publications and to Copley News Service and has co-authored two books on local history. She lives in Mexico, NY.

Images by J. J. Scott