Amazing Buenos Aries

By Sandra Scott

No matter how many times we visit Buenos Aires, Argentina, there is always something amazing to see. My husband, John, and I always include an afternoon in La Boca. Buenos Aires and Tango are synonymous and La Boca is the place where tango originated. Tango, “an emotion that is dance,” was born in the bars and brothels of La Boca, a port neighborhood of rabbit hutch housing for immigrants in the 1800s. It wasn’t until tango was introduced to France that the dance moved to the upper class. Once the preserve of older couples or merely a tourist attraction, tango is gaining popularity with all age groups.

In La Boca, we love to walk along the Caminito, a short street of brightly painted wooden and corrugated iron houses. Caminito owes its popularity to Benito Quinquela Martin, the barrio’s most famous artist, who painted expressive scenes of daily life in the neighborhood. He encouraged the immigrants’ tradition of painting their houses in bright colors and took the name for the street from a 1926 tango. After wandering the streets and viewing the artwork we head to the shade of Barberia Restaurant where we enjoy empanadas while watching the continuous tango show.

Imagine our surprise when we returned to our room at the Four Seasons Buenos Aires and one of the staff members showed up with our nightly chocolate fashioned into tango dancers – how did they know where we spent the day? Such a work of art was almost too good to eat. Almost. The Four Seasons never fails to impress and amaze. Located in the La Recoleta district close to everything, the Four Seasons has a contemporary tower plus a French-style mansion. While sitting around the pool with a wonderful view of the 1916 Belle Epoque mansion, I couldn’t help thinking of Eva Peron. I could imagine her standing on the small balcony, as she did at the Casa Rosada, to say her farewell. But because the Mansion exudes happiness, I envisioned her in a happier time.

The next day John and I headed to Museo Evita. The museum is not far from the Recoleta Cemetery where a daily pilgrimage of people pay homage to Eva Peron. The Duarte family vault where she is interred is never without flowers left by her faithful admirers.

Museo Evita provides a reverential image of Eva Duarte Peron with film clips, pictures, recordings of her speeches, and artifacts from her life. Handy cards in English provide translations of the film clips. The thirteen permanent exhibition rooms and one temporary display room follow the life of Eva Peron from her childhood through her youth as an actress, and then her life as the First Lady to Argentina President Juan Peron. Impressive exhibits outline her struggle for female civil rights, orphanages, and other social work. Included are the macabre happenings after her untimely death in her early 30s. Her body was kidnapped and interred in Italy. Finally her preserved remains were returned to Argentina. Most bizarre is her death mask.

On the way back to the Four Seasons, John and I wondered what the chocolate treat would be. Arriving at the hotel we are always amazed at how the staff remembers everyone’s name. Even the doorman we didn’t recall seeing before said, “Welcome back, Mr. Scott.” Our evening treat had already been delivered – no not a likeness of Evita – but a white and chocolate lighthouse.

Visit www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires and www.bue.gov.ar

Sandra Scott is a frequent contributor to travel publications and to Creators Syndicate
and has co-authored two books on local history. She lives in Mexico, NY.

Photos by J. J. Scott.

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