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What Makes French Chocolate Great? By Sally Peabody |
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Having tasted chocolates all around Paris and thinking about the remarkable level of quality and variety readily accessible there for chocolate aficionados, I began to wonder what it is that makes master chocolatiers truly great. What distinguishes their creations from the multitudes that are merely wonderful? And what is it about French-style chocolates that distinguishes them from the estimable chocolates made in Belgium or the USA or from Swiss chocolates? A recent conversation
with Ms. Lisa Kajita, who handles media relations for the very
vaut-le-voyage master chocolatier Jean Paul Hevin, shed
much light on these questions. First of all, and
The French prefer dark
chocolates that are crafted with a goal of perfect
flavor-equilibrium, according to Ms. Kajita. Monsieur Hevin blends
chocolates to reach that absolutely balanced note
Another happy fact is that quality chocolates high in cocoa content are lower in fat, thus it is possible to enjoy fine chocolates in moderation without undue waistline worry. What about those other styles of chocolates? Belgian chocolates tend to be higher-fat chocolates and Swiss chocolates tend to be made with milk chocolate. While I’ve enjoyed delicious milk or “light” chocolates in Paris and even surprisingly flavorful white chocolate creations, the richness of those types is derived more from the fat content. So for sophistication, sometimes delightfully surprising (but not pushing-the-envelope) flavors and guaranteed gastronomic satisfaction, seek out French-style artisanal chocolates. When in Paris, one can find the perfect chocolate trifecta at Jean Paul Hevin’s shop at 231 rue St. Honore. In the second-floor salon, it is possible to enjoy a chocolate pastry and a cup of surpassingly rich, hand-made chocolat chaud, and then to buy an assortment of superlative chocolates on the way out the door. After such an experience the world looks sunny indeed! Jean Paul Hevin has four shops in Paris and five in Japan. Visit www.jphevin.com. |
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chocolates are
readily available all over France and in astonishing abundance in
neighborhoods humble and haute across the French capital.
Every quarter, it seems, has alluringly intimate chocolate shops,
some tending to the classical, some to the whimsical, some
resembling purveyors of fine, deliciously edible jewels.
not surprising,
the quality of the chocolate is critical to making the very finest
bonbons and varied chocolate candies, patisserie and even
chocolate for drinking. And like many fine-food commodities, the
supply of truly superb chocolate is limited on world markets and is
accessible only to chocolatiers who know where and what to
buy and who have enduring relationships with suppliers. Then, there
is the knowledge of how to blend variously sourced chocolates with
differing cacao content to create, consistently, the
lusciousness-factor, the mouth-feel and the visual appeal. That is
just for starters. Next the questions of the chocolatier’s
signature style come into play. Sound a bit like the world of
wine? It is.
of
chocolate-ness. Then, he thinks about the relationship with the
fillings or the toppings with an eye to pairing flavors that may be
complimentary or may contrast in intriguing ways—think Roquefort
cheese covered with dark chocolate. Always, that benchmark of
equilibrium is critical. No one thing should dominate and the
entire experience of tasting the chocolate should raise the marriage
of flavors to a new, complementary level. This, I decided, is why
dark French chocolates are so satisfyingly delicious, and why it is
possible to eat one, well, maybe two, and not feel compelled to
polish off half the box.