Drink Like An Aztec

By Sally Peabody


 
 


Paris is home to numerous famed museums highlighting fine arts, decorative arts, literary arts but not, until now, culinary arts. Choco-Story, The Gourmet Chocolate Museum, tells the long and fascinating story of this beloved edible, drinkable substance. Today, evidence of the highest forms of the chocolate-makers art surround visitors to Paris, indeed chocolate shops and salons are omnipresent and offer magnificent products to tempt us. But as with much in the culinary world, there is an interesting back story.

At Choco-Story one embarks on a journey of learning about chocolate, its origins, its evolution from cup to plate, from food of the powerful to a delectable treat for all who care to enjoy it. Montezuma, the powerful Aztec King, measured his wealth in territory and in cacao beans. Drinking chocolate was reserved for the king and his warriors. Cocoa beans were offered to the gods. Chocolate was believed to have enduring properties to enhance strength, wisdom, and courage. It was for the elite.

Present-day chocolate aficionados have the Spanish explorer Cortez to thank for bringing chocolate from present-day Mexico to Europe (originally Spain). Chocolate was, then, solely for drinking in a spicy brew that evolved from the Aztec and Mayan styles, with the Spanish breakthrough addition of sugar to the cacao and spice brew of those indigenous cultures.

The European saga of the spread of love for chocolate owes much to women. Queen Anne of Austria, daughter of King Philip the III of Spain, wife of King Louis the IX of France was one of chocolate’s earliest royal proponents. During the terrible years of the Inquisition awareness of chocolate spread from Spain to elsewhere in Europe, one positive result of the misery and diaspora of the Spanish Jews who were expert chocolate makers. They were forced to flee from Spain to Portugal, finally settling in the Bayonne-Biarritz area in France. Famed French women diarists like Madame Sevigne wrote of the seemingly magical powers of chocolate to restore and invigorate. Queens and noblewomen gave chocolate to their lovers to enhance libido. Chocolate was well on its way to established essential-ness for the French and European upper classes.

But let’s save the story of present day chocolate for another time. For now, if you want to go back to the roots and taste chocolate as an Aztec ruler might have savored it, or as Cortez and his cohort would have drunk it, take a look at these recipes.

Here is an Aztec recipe that was transmitted to Francisco Hernandez, physician of Philip II of Spain. The recipe is featured in the exhibit.

Crush together 50% roasted cocoa beans and 50% kernels of the sapotilla fruit. Add: crushed corn, “ear flower,” vanilla, Mexican pepper, and a little honey. If desirable, add achiote (to give an even ruddier red-brown color), chili, allspice, “heart flower.” Brew with water.

Now, just in case you can’t find sapotilla or ear flower, you can definitely try a variant on this recipe from Spain that is reputedly the oldest known Spanish recipe. Choco-Story serves a variant of this hot chocolate in their dégustation of three different hot chocolates. The recipe notes that chocolate became a sweetened drink around 1500 AD, or about 500 years ago. The proportions may be a little tricky to replicate but you can play with good quality cocoa and these spices to drink like a Spanish conquistador and his king.

“Oldest Known Spanish Recipe” From Choco-Story Exhibit.

Take 700 roasted cocoa beans Grind and mix with: 1.5 pounds of sugar. 2 ounces of cinnamon. 14 blackpepper grains, 0.5 ounces of cloves, 3 vanilla pods or aniseed, 1 spoonful of achiote, almonds, hazelnuts, orange blossom water.

Next time you are in Paris, make it a point to visit Choco-Story. It is a fascinating journey through the world of chocolate from bean to cup, tree to plate.

Choco-Story, The Gourmet Chocolate Museum, is at 28 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle. The museum is on three floors. There is an elevator for handicapped visitors that you must request permission to use. Visit www.museeduchocolat.fr.

 


Sally Peabody is a Paris specialist. She advises independent travelers year-round on getting to their best chocolate (and lots of other good things) and leads small-group culinary tours in spring and fall, including Tea,Paris, and Chocolate Tours.
Visit: http://yourgreatdaysinparis.com
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