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Traditional + New = Culinary
Excitement By Patricia D. Sherman |
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Chocolate is one of his favorite ingredients because it is the perfect medium for culinary artists, he says. “Its distinct malleability allows for changes in form, flavor, texture, temperature. You can really do anything with it,” he says. At the historic Driskill Hotel, Chef Chapman oversees pastry for the fine dining Driskill Grill and the 1886 Cafe and Bakery. At both venues, he uses Valrhona chocolate and focuses on the true flavors of the chocolate. He enjoys pairing chocolate and cheese as well as working with a variety of flavor combinations. Chef Chapman’s passion for food began in his hometown of Flint, MI. He recalls an epiphany moment one evening when he cooked his first midnight cheeseburger. “I realized this is what I want to be. I’ve always been independent in the kitchen, and I’ve continually been challenged by what the culinary arts have to offer.” He soon realized that pastry interested him most, because of the delicacy and flexibility of the ingredients and the potential for presentation. He graduated magna cum laude with a specialty in chocolate and sugar work from Johnson and Wales University in Charleston, SC, and interned in New York, studying under pastry chef Jacques Torres at Le Cirque. Chapman went on to gain recognition at the 5757 restaurant of the Four Seasons Hotel and at the Peninsula Hotel. He was also Executive Pastry Chef at the Stanhope Hotel. Then he traveled to France, Belgium, and Switzerland to learn more about European pastry traditions. Returning to New York, he became Executive Pastry Chef at the Paris-based Maxim’s. In February 1998, Chapman moved to Texas to as Pastry Chef at La Mansion del Rio’s Las Canarias, in San Antonio before joining the Driskill Hotel in Austin. Chef Chapman was cited for his originality, flavor combinations, plate presentations and taste when he was named one of the Top Ten Pastry Chefs in the country by Pastry Art and Design magazine. Chef Chapman says one of his favorite chocolate creations was his Mariachi Bunny Band. Each member and their instruments were made entirely out of chocolate and sugar, and each year, Chapman and his team added a new member, to whom they gave a name and a life story.
His creativity is not limited to shapes and designs, however. For the last 15 years, he has been known for his chocolate and pepper creations. His Chocolate Silk Tart (recipe) seasoned with ancho chilis, cayenne pepper, and shaved ginger are popular Driskill desserts. His White Chocolate Raspberry Creme Brulee (recipe), deepens the flavor of a traditional dessert with white chocolate. “When I was in New York, people loved the sort of ‘cutting-edge’ idea of chocolate and peppers. They’d never tasted that flavor combination. But elsewhere it may not have gone over so well. So you have to take into account the local flavor and traditions when you’re deciding how to flavor and season your pastries. For example, you’ve really got to have a twist to your peach cobbler in Texas to get it noticed, but something like Italian Amaretto cheesecake seems new and exciting. The most important things to remember are to stay challenged, have fun, and never say no to a new opportunity. If you’re always changing yourself and your food for the better, people can tell, and they’ll appreciate it.” Visit: www.DriskillHotel.com. |
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“There is a familiarity with the flavors that
most people hold dear. It takes years of experience to understand it
and tap into it--your grandmother’s pie, the special dessert your
mom made, the soda fountain desserts you saved your allowance money
to buy. It sparks an excitement when you can take that and add a
twist to it. Suddenly the dessert appeals in a whole new way.
Certain facets of cooking always remain true: you need ingredients
that contrast but complement each other. For instance, I love
pairing warm desserts with ice cream or sorbet—you get a contrast of
flavor, texture, and temperature all in one bite.”