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Love of Chocolate Had Bitter Beginning: By Patricia D. Sherman |
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Since then, his appreciation of chocolate has changed, but that early jolt of pure chocolate flavor has stayed with him. Even today, he says, he favors “great chocolate with wonderful flavor and not so much sugar.” His taste in chocolate now ranges far beyond Hershey’s and Oreos, too. “There are so many chocolate makers out there now from Spain, France and America making truly wonderful couvertures. My favorite to work with is Chocovic from Spain. It is great in flavor and texture and consistency. They have so many varieties, so if you are doing a chocolate dessert tasting menu at a restaurant, you can try many flavors, all from Chocovic and truly see their range of cocoa. At one of our restaurants, we give a small chocolate treat at the end of the meal. It is made up of all three chocolates (dark, milk, white). We might infuse one chocolate with Chinese cinnamon or mix others with flavored oils or spices. It is a lot of fun, and people are truly amazed when they get it and realize what it is. The best was white chocolate infused with cayenne and orange powder, sprinkled with pistachio flour and chopped candied rose petals all mixed together. The colors alone were wonderful, but the flavor was incredible!” For pure enjoyment, though, “I love to eat chocolate from the Vosges Chocolate Company out of Chicago. Great flavor combos.” The New Hampshire native trained at the French Culinary Institute and has worked at top restaurants in New York, including the acclaimed Bouley Bakery and Payard’s Patisserie and Bistro. In Atlanta, St. Hilaire turned his love of baking into a wholesale bread company. He has won the Gold Medal in the Southern Pastry Classic and was named Best New American Chef in Atlanta in by Bon Appetit magazine. Atlanta magazine has also recognized him for the city’s Best Chocolate Dessert. He is known for his signature chocolate dessert, a milk chocolate and peanut butter bar. It is very similar to an opera cake with alternating layers of peanut butter mixed with milk chocolate and a chocolate ganache. “We layer that five times and sneak in a center layer consisting of peanut butter, 10x sugar, cookie crumbs, peanuts, and cinnamon. “It has all the flavors of a Reece’s Peanut Butter Cup.” Concentrics Restaurant group includes ONE midtown kitchen, TWO urban licks, TROIS, TAP, PARISH: Foods & Goods, Lobby at TWELVE, Room at TWELVE, STATS, and LUMA on Park. |
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loved Oreos and mint chocolate chip ice cream. But once, for
some bizarre reason, I needed a chocolate fix and all I could find
was a small bar of Hershey’s chocolate. Well, come to find out, it
was 99 per cent chocolate, and you can imagine I was quite shocked
after devouring half the bar before even knowing it had no sugar in
it. Not a pretty facial expression to say the least.” 