Discovering Chocolate’s Savory Side

“Adding chocolate raises a good soup to a great soup. It adds beautiful color, a smoother consistency, and rounds out the taste,” says Chef Jeffrey Thompson.

By Sandra Scott

If chocolate is “to die for” then combining a chocolate cooking experience with a stay at Wheatleigh is “to die for” multiplied. The 19-room hotel is set on 22 acres in the Berkshires near Lenox, MA. There I spent a snowy day last January with two other chocophiles learning to cook with chocolate under the guidance of Chef Jeffrey Thompson.  But desserts weren’t on the agenda. Instead, Chef Jeff taught us how to discover Chocolate’s savory side using Valrhona chocolate.

But first something about the glorious setting: You may not be married to royalty and your daddy may not be one of America’s industrial giants but there is a place nestled in the Berkshires that will make you feel like a member of the gentrified elite. Henry H. Cook built Wheatleigh in 1893 as a wedding present for his daughter, Georgie, who married Carlos de Heredia, a Spanish count. Cook was a New York financier, banker, director of railroads and a real estate tycoon.  Supposedly Cook built Wheatleigh as a “summer cottage” for his daughter because she brought a title into the family. The stately 19th-century Italianate palazzo has been restored and offers 19 exquisite accommodations, brilliant cuisine and flawless service in the grand European style.

Approaching via the sweeping drive you will feel as if you are leaving one world behind and entering another, one with an Old World ambiance not often found in the United States.  At the portico, Travis will be waiting to help with your luggage and park your car.  CiCi, Marc and Ole will greet you in the Great Hall and instantly you will feel at home. Even though it was built as a summer cottage, guests can enjoy all the seasons at Wheatleigh now. The views of the Berkshires will inspire the artist within – the fresh green buds of spring, the summer sun splashed upon the hill, the brilliant colors of fall, and the snow-clad mountains of winter.

Dining at the Wheatleigh is a divine experience, one people drive miles to enjoy, due in no small part to Chef Jeff. He started out helping, and learning, in kitchen of a family friend. A simple interest quickly became a passion. His professional career began as an apprentice at the Broadmoor Hotel. Hard work led him to The Sun Mountain Lodge in Washington, where he was executive sous chef.

There were plenty of opportunities to experiment and try his own ideas. While working as a sous chef at Williamsburg Inn, Jeff met Chef J. Bryce Whittlesey and followed him to the Wheatleigh. The tandem of these two enthusiasts proved to be fruitful for Wheatleigh. Readiness to learn and openness to new ideas have been the characteristics that guided Chef Jeff. He tries to use every opportunity to explore the secrets of cooking and food handling.  Cooking with chocolate is only one facet of his culinary art.

The tasting menu our class worked on began with Chestnut Soup with Araguani Tuile.  Chef Jeff talked us through the preparation of chestnut cappuccino garnished with Araguani Tuile, including tips on preparing chestnuts the easy way.

We all agreed with Chef Jeff when he explained, “Adding chocolate raises a good soup to a great soup.  It adds beautiful color, a smoother consistency, and rounds out the taste.”

Preparing Wild Striped Bass Tartar with Chocolate Ivoire introduced us to a new fruit. Yuzu is a sour Japanese citrus fruit with a taste and aroma all of its own. The diced bass was tossed with white chocolate, shallots, chives, citrus fleur de sel, Yuzu gelee, and a little oil and served with caviar.

Just when we though taste think nothing could surpass the soup and bass, the Pan Seared Foie Gras with Kunguat Marmalade and Cocoa Nib Nougatine was ready. The foie gras nestled against a slice of brioche toast, topped with kumguat marmalade we made from scratch, garnished with chervil and served with Cocoa Nib Nougatine defies description.  The lesson ended with a chocolate tasting session while learning what chocolates to use with what items.  What a wonderful concept - chocolate in soup, chocolate served with game dishes, chocolate as part of every course. What’s not to like?

Needless to say the chocolate delights we cooked were exquisite but every meal at Wheatleigh is a wonderful adventure in dining.  The “Discovering Chocolate’s Savory Side” is just one of the many cooking experiences offered by the chefs of Wheatleigh.

Learning more about chocolate while staying at Wheatleigh raises decadence to a new level.

www.Wheatleigh.com.

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